I Hope you find this information helpful even if you purchase rabbits elsewhere
Please note pics of bunny's bits and nasty teeth coming up!
Ok this is the boring bit.... Sorry guys there are some rules:
♥ No bunnies can leave until they are at least 8 weeks old under British Rabbit Council recommendations. I prefer bunnies to go to their new homes at between 9 and 11 weeks old, this way I know they are strong enough and healthy enough to cope with the change. Very small bunnies I tend to keep here until they are 12 weeks old. Rabbits can be reserved from 5-6 weeks when I feel they are fully weaned and able to cope without mum.
♥ I do not sell to under 16's so please bring mum or dad with you.
♥ I am more than happy for genuine visitors to come and see the rabbits but kids please remember to keep the volume down as baby bunnies are easily frightened and the mums can get agitated. The shed is a very calm place both for me and the buns!!!
♥ Sexing baby rabbits can sometimes be very difficult, (I have been on the receiving end of some very experienced breeders and vet's mistakes). I will always tell you if I am in doubt as to the sex of rabbits. It is hard to be 100% certain in some babies, but if you are particularly keen on a rabbit and sex is uncertain it is often better to wait until bunny is at least 12 weeks old. I will tell you if I am still unsure at this stage so accept no responsibility later on if Henry suddenly becomes Henrietta!! I will show you the sex of a rabbit before you take it home.
♥ Rabbits can suffer from a condition known as malocclusion (overgrowth of the incisors) this can be genetic or caused by poor diet (see later). Dental problems can be frustrating for vets and owners and can end up costing a huge amount of money. I am angry that many rabbit breeders are selling rabbits genetically carrying this condition. PLEASE CHECK BUNNY'S TEETH BEFORE YOU TAKE IT HOME. If malocclusion is genetic it can be seen as early as 8 weeks old. I CAN ENSURE THAT BUNNY'S LEAVING HERE DO NOT HAVE MALOCCLUSION. I would never breed from a rabbit with suspect teeth or sell one as a pet. I have also been on the receiving end of this and it is very expensive and distressing. I will show you the teeth before you take bunny home. Look out for:
In a healthy rabbit the top incisors should be in front of the bottom ones and straight.
♥ Rabbits are priced at £30-40 each for Netherland Dwarf babies and youngsters, proven breeding stock is £40-50 per rabbit and lionheads are £35. THERE IS NO PROFIT IN BREEDING RABBITS!! It is a labour of love, and all monies go straight back into the feeding and care of the bunnies.
♥ I do not take deposits for rabbits unless you want to give me one, in which case it will be non-returnable or go towards the price of the rabbit. I would hate for a rabbit to be purchased because you felt obliged, therefore I will reserve rabbits on your word. If you really want bunny then you will come back! All I ask is that if you change your mind please ring or email, so that bunny can be available for someone else to enjoy.
♥Lastly I do not take rabbits back after purchase. I do not provide a rabbit rehoming service, as I cannot risk disease from the outside being brought into my shed. Thankfully this has never occurred so far, all owners have been happy . Please think carefully before buying a bunny, I will give you all the necessary information prior to purchase and would ask that if bunny is not suitable that you find a new loving home yourself.
For your information
The recent Animal Welfare Act 2007 states that keepers of rabbits are required to supply "Sufficient space and proper facilities". This has been interpreted such that the hutch should be large enough for the adult rabbit to take sveral hops in any given direction and stand up on its hind legs. Please remember this when purchasing housing for your bunny.
My rabbits are kept in hutch blocks where individual hutches are at a minimum of 28"w X 24"d X 22"h some are larger than this. The indoor cage variety of housing are excellent for rabbits and I advise using these if the bunnies are going to be inside, prices can vary upto £50, but good quality cages can be found for around £30:
Alternatively any well built outdoor hutch is fine but please ensure the hutch has a bedroom side where bunny can hide if he is frightened or cold, that the hutch roof is fully felted and waterproof. Make sure the wire front is FOX PROOF (thick strong wire mesh)!! This is important as loosing pet bunnies to foxes can be very distressing but is easily prevented.
Diet is very important in rabbits. Poor diet can lead to many problems the main ones being dental disease and obesity which leads to many problems of its own. Again prevention is the best measure against inflated vet bills later on, and once bunny is fat believe me it is incredibly hard to loose that weight! The best diet for rabbits is one that mimics as closely as possible their natural diet, the bulk should consist of grass and/or good quality hay and this should be available at all times. I feed hay and Spillers Redigrass which is a freeze dried grass:
Concentrate foods should contain 12-14% protein, 18% fibre and <4% fat. A maximum of 25g of pellets per kg body weight per day should be fed. I feed Burgess Supa Rabbit Junior and Dwarf, babies have Chudleys Rabbit Royale mixed in for variety.
I ADVISE A PELLET FOOD RATHER THAN A MIX TO PREVENT SELECTIVE FEEDING.
There is lots of argument as to whether bunnies should live on their own or in pairs or groups. There is conflicting literature and vet advice on the subject. All I can provide you with is my advice following experience. Rabbits will live quite happily on their own as long as you interact with them daily, groom, pet and love them. Rabbits will exhibit more natural behaviour if in pairs, and I advise male/female neutered pairs only. Female pairs of litter mates will also occasionally work but must also be neutered or when reaching sexual maturity hormonal influences will not lead to a happy life. Although there are cases of neutured males getting along, most males will undoubtedly fight which is unpleasant for you and bunny so I will not sell male/male pairs.
I will help to socialise rabbits not purchased at the same time, this can take some time and patience and is not always successful. But I have lots of advice and tricks up my sleeve in order to achieve the best results.
Lastly (after all this waffle!!) by coming to a breeder I will be available for advice and support for the life of the rabbit, this is my responsibility to the rabbits and to you. Please feel free to contact me even if you think it is silly, I regularly answer queries that have simple answers and prevent an unnecessary trip to the vet. I have ideas that are only gained by experience and close observation of rabbits over their development and lifetime unlike a pet shop. With more and more pet shops tied to laws and guidelines, purchasing from breeders is becoming more popular, Thank goodness for the sake of the rabbits as this way you can ensure the health and background of rabbits before you buy them.